Unfortunately, there are many dog owners who do not know that spaying a dog before her first heat cycle will decrease her chances of mammary cancer by over 98 percent.  This is one reason that veterinarians recommend that female dogs be spayed before they are six months old.  Your pet is no more susceptible to mammary cancer than any other female dog that is spayed after her second heat cycle.

Do not regret what wasn't previously done but rather feel good that you have prevented your dog from going through some other potentially dangerous conditions by having her spayed at this time.  Pyometra, or infection of the uterus, can be a fatal illness that is common in older, unspayed females.

As far as watching for breast cancer, the best thing you can do is to check your dog's mammary glands for lumps monthly.  Female dogs have left and right mammary chains that run from the front leg area all the way back to the inguinal area.  You can start at each nipple and feel her skin and subcutaneous tissue around each one.  Many owners are able to find a lump on their own if they are in the habit of petting their dog's belly area.

If you find a lump, you should set up an appointment with your veterinarian to have it evaluated and removed if necessary.  Mammary growths have about a 50 percent chance of being malignant and spreading to other parts of the body.  The earlier you address a growth, the less chance it has to spread if it happens to be of the malignant type.  Time frames for this vary but usually they don't occur until the primary cancer has been present for a certain period of time.

Your veterinarian will also check your dog thoroughly at each yearly exam.  However, do not hesitate to have her seen sooner than that if you find a growth.  You have taken a big step in preventing problems by having her spayed and being aware that you should watch for abnormal growths.

Unfortunately, this is a very common problem for cat owners.  It is possible that your cat is exhibiting this behavior because of an underlying medical disorder, so the pet should be examined by a veterinarian to rule out disease as a cause of inappropriate urination.  Cats may urinate in inappropriate places because of urinary tract infections, bladder stones, and feline lower urinary tract disease.  Tests such as urinalysis, bloodwork, and x-rays of the abdomen may identify the presence of such medical problems.

However, inappropriate urination is most often a behavioral problem.  One of the most common reasons that cats stop using the litter box is that the box is not kept clean enough for their tastes.  Boxes need to be scooped at least daily, and the litter should be changed frequently.  Many cats are best accommodated with two separate boxes:  one for urination and one for defecation.  Both boxes must be kept clean.  If you have multiple cats, many veterinarians recommend that you provide at least one litter box per cat.  You may want to provide litter box access on each floor of the house.

Also consider whether your cat has access to the litter box.  Is there a closed door blocking your cat's path to the litter box?  In addition, a dog that stands guard or a dominant cat may not permit the affected cat to use the box.  Other causes of aversion to the litter box include proximity to appliances that are noisy, such as televisions and washing machines, and those that turn on or off by use of a timer.  Cats that are disturbed in the litter box by another cat, child, or dog may develop a litter box aversion as well.

It is possible that your cat is reacting to a change in the box location or type of litter.  Some cats are very particular about where they go, and others are sensitive to the perfumes or dust in the litter.  It may be necessary to try different types of litter -- for example, a non-clumping clay litter versus a sand-like clumping one -- until you find one that meets your pet's needs.  In addition, if you provide the cat with a covered litter box, you might try switching to an uncovered box to see if the pet prefers it.

There are other methods for controlling inappropriate urination.  You may want to move the litter box to the area where your cat is urinating.  Always clean the soiled areas of your home with a non-ammonia cleaner.  Because cats are drawn to the scent of urine, they may continue to go in the same inappropriate site if they are stimulated by the smell of previous accidents.  The best cleaning products contain enzymes that degrade the urine and prevent stains.  These products should be available through your veterinarian or local pet store.  Because your cat may have a preference for carpet, you can change the way the area feels by using plastic carpet protectors or aluminum foil.  This substrate change may make the litter box a preferred spot.  In some cases, you may want to move your cat's food bowl to the area that she had previously soiled.  Because cats are fastidious they don't like to eat and eliminate in the same place.

It is important to talk to your veterinarian about the inappropriate urination.  He or she will have some additional suggestions tailored to the specific needs of your cat.  In some cases, medication can be helpful in controlling the problem, but it is usually reserved for cases where other possibilities have been exhausted.  Veterinary behavioral specialists may offer additional insights.

Unfortunately, this is one of the most common behavioral complaints of cat owners.

There are several factors that may contribute to cats defecating inappropriately. Environmental or social stress, personal preferences or changes in personal preferences, or medical problems may cause this behavior.

Although most feline elimination disorders are behavioral, to rule out a medical problem, your veterinarian will need to do a complete physical examination, urinalysis, and a fecal exam. If your cat is middle-aged or older, then the doctor may also opt to perform bloodwork including a complete blood count and a chemistry panel. Cats with feline lower urinary tract disease or cystitis may begin to defecate and/or urinate outside the litter box.

It can be difficult to determine whether cats begin defecating outside of the box because they have developed a disliking to a certain litter, or to a location, as opposed to simply preferring to defecate in the new location.

The development of a disliking or aversion to a particular substrate or litter is much more likely than avoidance of a particular location. Cats can develop an aversion to anything from clumpable litter, to an odor, to certain noises, to extraneous smells, and many other things.

If possible, offer the affected cat a wide variety of different types of cat litter in a combination of different depths. You could try changing the litter and leaving the box in the same location. In addition, providing a second litter box in the area that has been chosen as the unwanted place to defecate may be helpful. Some cats require separate litter boxes for urination and defecation. Generally, if there are elimination problems in the house, each cat should have at least one box. And there should be at least one box per floor in multi-floored homes.

Cats typically do not develop aversions to locations, but they may if the litter box is associated with the presence of any undesirable individual such as another cat, a dog, or a child. Perhaps your cat had a bad experience while at the previous litter box. Another pet could have disturbed your cat while it was defecating, causing it to have a negative association with the box. Also, if the litter box is close to a television, alarm clock, or other noisy object, your cat may have developed an aversion to defecating there.

It is a good idea to place another litter box in a new location where your cat has begun defecating. You can use the same litter and the same box, or buy another box. If your pet begins to use the new box, then gradually move the box an inch each day until it is in a more desirable spot. If you move the litter box too quickly, however, the cat may relapse. In addition, if another pet begins tormenting the affected cat while it defecates in this new place, then the problem may begin again.

Something else to consider is the personality of your cat. Shy cats may need a covered litter box. Another idea is to place your cat's food and water in the bedroom to see if this deters him; most pets will not defecate in the same area that they eat.

You could also try a scat mat. These are sold at many pet stores, and they send a mild shock when an animal stands on them. Yet, although a scat mat may deter defecation in the bedroom, your cat may very well pick another inappropriate place.

If your cat is medically normal, and other behavioral techniques have been exhausted, your veterinarian may recommend medical treatment with anti-anxiety medications. Consult your veterinarian about this problem for more information and suggestions. Veterinary behavioral specialists may offer additional insights.

Cats by nature absolutely love to stretch and scratch certain surfaces.  Scratching allows the cat not only to stretch, but to sharpen their claws and mark their territory.  This is a very normal behavior for all cats, but sometimes the cat chooses scratching sites that are not particularly ideal- the new couch that was just delivered, you with your new pants on, or the expensive sheers hanging in the window!  Obviously these are not ideal surfaces and the cat's behavior must be curbed.

Most cats can be trained to use a scratching post instead of the alternatives.  This is done by first purchasing a scratching post that has a wide base, is secure, at least two to three feet tall, and has a rough surface on it that is attractive to the cat- such as burlap or wound rope.  It must have these features because the cat has to be able to stand up and pull down on the post to scratch and stretch, yet not pull it over.  These posts can be made or purchased from many different stores.

Training begins with placing the scratching post where the cat sleeps or somewhere that it enjoys hanging out.  Then, carry your cat to the scratching post, gently take its front feet, and rub them up and down on the post.  If the cat struggles or is scared, don't restrain it or continue to frighten it- remember this must be fun!  The key is repetition, and gradually your cat will learn that the scratching post is an approved surface to destroy at any time.

It is also important that you realize cats can be trained, and you must teach the cat that scratching the curtains, couch, your new pants, or any place besides the scratching post is unacceptable.  This may involve using a squirt gun, loud noise, or something else that alerts the cat while it's scratching off-limit places.  Never strike or hit the cat as this will cause more harm than good.  Be patient and don't give up - repetition is important.

If you have tried unsuccessfully to train your cat and are considering giving it up, declawing is another option.  This procedure is only to be done on cats that are strictly indoors.  Only the front feet should be declawed.  The back feet are usually not a problem and are left alone so that if the cat were ever to get outside, it could still climb up a tree or partly defend itself.

Owners should be aware that several prominent animal welfare organizations are opposed to declawing cats.  For example, the Humane Society will not adopt out a cat if an owner plans to declaw it.  For more information, contact the ASPCA (www.aspca.org) or The Humane Society of the United States (www.hsus.org)

Declawing is best done at the time of spaying or neutering- approximately five to six months of age.  This procedure can be done very humanely with the use of pain medications.  Pain management has the best results if it is started approximately 15 to 20 minutes before the surgery and continued for the next 24 to 48 hours.  There are many different pain medications that can be used safely by veterinarians in cats, and they are relatively inexpensive and very effective!  They ensure a pain-free experience and allow the cat to rest comfortably for the next 24 to 48 hours.  This also helps the cat to not associate the veterinarian with a negative experience!  Consult with your veterinarian about the use of medications such as butorphanol, fentanyl patches, morphine, and buprinex.

There are other surgical procedures that are available, such as "tenectomy" (or tendonectomy).  This procedure involves cutting out part of the tendon that controls the cat's ability to use its claws- flex and extend them.  The claws are not actually removed as they are in a declaw procedure, but they are left permanently extended.  This means the cat can no longer control its claws to scratch up surfaces, but they are still able to grow.  The claws have to be trimmed every 4 to 8 weeks for life because the nails tend to overgrow and can turn into the pads of the paw causing pain and infection.

Consult with your veterinarian about these options and alternatives to declawing your cat.  Also discuss pain management options with your veterinarian.  There is no reason for animals to have to experience any pain today because of the availability of so many safe pain medications.

Owners commonly ask this question during the first two weeks after bringing a puppy into their home.  At first, a puppy's crying or whining is largely due to loneliness, as well as the drastic change in its environment.  Remember that the puppy is used to being with its mother and other siblings.  It needs about two weeks to bond with you and the family and to establish a routine, so sleeping through the night may not come easily to them.

In addition, young puppies are not physically able to hold their urine for long periods of time.  Until the size of its bladder increases and its muscle tone improves, you will need to let your puppy outside to eliminate at least once in the middle of the night.  A puppy four months of age or older should be able to hold its urine overnight.

When trying to quiet a whining puppy, a common mistake that new owners make is trying to comfort the animal by talking sweetly or petting it for a few minutes before returning the pet to its crate.  This practice teaches the puppy that every time it cries, it will get the attention that it loves.  Most puppies will stop whining in 10 to 15 minutes if you give them no response.  A few difficult nights of this "tough love" will teach your puppy that bedtime is sleep time.

If the puppy wakes in the middle of the night and becomes fussy, it is probably indicating a need to go to the bathroom.  This should be an all-business-and-no-play trip, in order to avoid the puppy waking you up in the future solely for attention.  Calmly praise your puppy for doing its bathroom duties in the right place, but do not let it think that this is a time for play, or for lots of attention from you.

Some things that may help your puppy adjust to its new environment include a comfortable crate with padding, a warm water bottle wrapped in a towel or blanket, and a ticking clock or music near its crate.  Some people choose to set up the crate next to their own bed, so that the puppy feels more secure.

Although your pet may have a low risk of getting diseases from other animals, vaccinations are important because infection is always a possibility.  Some viruses can linger in the environment for some time, long after the animals that deposited them have passed.  And some viruses, such as parvo, are severe enough to cause death.

We feel that we cannot emphasize enough the importance of having your pet regularly vaccinated against rabies.  Rabies is a fatal virus -- not only in many pets, but also in other mammals, including humans.  Consequently, rabies vaccination is required by law in all of the United States.  Rabid animals act very strangely, lose their fear of humans and other animals, and could approach you and your pet even in the middle of the day.  Further, bats are known to get inside houses accidentally, and could spread rabies indoors.  If your pet is not current on its rabies shot, and it bites or nips a human being, your regional health department could require the euthanasia to test your pet for rabies.  The cost of a rabies vaccination is very cheap, especially when compared with the heartache that could be encountered if it is not done.

The decision to vaccinate against other contagious diseases is one that each owner has to make on a case-by-case basis.  Because not all pets have the same risk of exposure to certain diseases, not all pets need the same vaccinations.  Certain vaccines, such as that for feline leukemia, are recommended only if a cat is spending time outdoors, where it could be involved in a fight.  Your veterinarian will make a recommendation depending on your pet's individual situation.  But as a general rule, it is much easier and safer to prevent contagious illnesses than it is to treat them.

Every puppy that was properly vaccinated needs a yearly vaccine booster for DHLP-P, and, depending on the state laws, a rabies vaccine either yearly or every two to three years.  DHLP-P is a multi vaccine that combines protection from several viruses into one.

Most vaccines need to be repeated on a yearly basis because the immunity that the vaccine stimulates declines over time.  A vaccine usually contains altered viral antigen that stimulates the dog's immune system to produce antibodies against the virus.  The viral antigen is altered in the vaccine so that it does not cause the actual disease, but it stimulates the immune system to develop defenses against the virus in case of exposure to the disease at a later time.

Some typical ongoing vaccinations for dogs include the following:

1. DA₂LP-P vaccine - contains a combination of Distemper, Adenovirus- type 2 that causes Infectious Canine Hepatitis (liver disease), Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza, and Parvovirus.

2. Rabies vaccine - every year to three years depending on the state laws.

3. Lyme vaccine - usually given yearly, this vaccine is recommended for dogs at high risk of tick exposure. Deer ticks or "hard ticks" can transmit bacteria called Borrelia burgdorferi, which cause Lyme disease. There is some controversy as to the use and effectiveness of this vaccine. Consult with your veterinarian about vaccinating your dog for Lyme disease.

4. Coronavirus vaccine- is given to dogs at risk of developing coronavirus and is used when owners want all possible protection against viral diarrhea.

5. Bordetella vaccine - This vaccine is either given intranasally (drops into the nose) or as an injection under the skin.  The intranasal form has been found to provide better immunity.  The vaccine helps protect against infectious tracheobronchitis, or kennel cough.

Consult with your veterinarian about your dog's risk and need for vaccines such as the Lyme, coronavirus, and Bordetella vaccines.  The DA₂LP-P and Rabies vaccines need to be repeated in all dogs and usually are not optional.

Although some breeders opt to give vaccines themselves, veterinarians do not advocate unlicensed individuals vaccinating animals.  Nevertheless, if you are giving vaccines, please be sure that you know how to do so properly.  If vaccines are given accidentally into a blood vessel, there can be a severe shock reaction and the dog can die.  Also, if vaccines are left out on the shipping dock, not properly refrigerated, or not given correctly, the dog will be inadequately protected from potentially life threatening diseases.

Remember that vaccines are not the entire reason that an animal needs to go the veterinarian annually.  A physical exam is critical, because this allows the veterinarian to detect any problems or diseases before it is too late to do anything about them.

Congratulations to you and your family!  Welcome to the world of pet ownership.  If this is your first dog, you will soon come to know the special bond that forms between human and animal.  Studies have been done about the many health benefits of the human-animal bond.  As long as you carefully foster the relationship, no one will love and respect you as much as a dog.

Many people joke that they'll try raising a dog before having children.  But owning a dog is like having a child that remains in childhood for its entire life.  Puppies need constant observation, just like toddlers.  As adult dogs, they may need less intense observation.   Nevertheless, they still can be quite destructive or suffer dangerous problems if left unsupervised.

We recommend that you schedule a puppy check-up with a veterinarian as soon as possible.  Most shelters, breeders, and pet stores require a post-purchase exam within 72 hours of taking home your new puppy.  Take any records of your puppy's deworming and vaccinations.  It is also a good idea to write down a list of questions that you may have for your veterinarian.

The veterinarian will examine the puppy to determine if it seems healthy and free of disease.  After reviewing past records, a schedule for deworming and future vaccinations will be determined.  Puppies need to receive multiple vaccinations until they reach the age of 19 to 20 weeks.  You should limit your puppy's exposure to unknown dogs as well as canine excrement until the pet has completed its vaccination series.

As a newcomer to a human household, your puppy probably is going through many changes that can be very scary and stressful.  It is helpful for you to plan for your new companion's homecoming ahead of time.

A list some of things you will need are:

• Food that the puppy has been eating. You can switch the diet over to a brand that you prefer, but you should do this slowly, over a two week period, to prevent stomach upset and diarrhea.

• A crate or carrier to be used as a sleeping area and for housetraining, once the puppy is used to it.

• Blankets or a lambswool pad for the crate.

• A baby gate or multiple gates.

• Newspaper or piddle pads.

• Food and water bowls, preferably metal.

• Antichew agents that can be applied to furniture, houseplants, and other household objects.

• Appropriate chew toys.

• A wide, flat collar that is fitted properly. You will go through a number of these as the puppy grows.

• A four-foot leash.

• Appropriate grooming tools - a slicker brush, a comb, cotton balls for ear cleaning, and other essentials.

We hope that this is information will help you get started.  Keep learning all that you can about your puppy so that you will be prepared to care for it throughout its life.

Animals easily pick up ticks in their fur from the outdoors.  Ticks will attach themselves to the skin for several days, until they are full of blood sucked from their host.  During this period, they can transmit serious diseases to cats and dogs and should be removed as soon as they are detected on the animal.  Some diseases can be prevented by early tick removal, since the transfer of the infectious agent can take up to 72 hours.

Ticks should be removed with tweezers applied to the portion of the tick's head closest to the skin.  Pull gently and with steady pressure.  Examine the tick to be sure the entire head was removed.  Afterwards, the bite wound should be cleaned with antibacterial soap and rinsed well.

Several options are currently available to prevent ticks from attaching themselves to your pet, and to kill the ones that do.  Frontline® is a safe and effective topical flea and tick control product that is applied to the animal's skin once a month.  A Preventic® tick collar, although not a flea deterrent, is an effective method of preventing and killing ticks for up to three months.  There are many shampoos, dips, and sprays that can be used to kill ticks in certain animals.  However, kittens, puppies, and some adult cats can be sensitive to these products.  Consult your veterinarian about which products are appropriate for your pets.

Anal gland impaction is a common reason that dogs scoot.  Full anal glands cause irritation and pressure around the anus.  Dogs scoot in an attempt to relieve the sensations.  Your veterinarian can check your dog's anal glands and express them, hence eliminating this as a potential problem.

Your dog should be checked for tapeworms and other intestinal parasites, as these may also cause dogs to scoot.  Tapeworms commonly appear as "white rice" segments around the dog's anus or in the stool.  If you have seen this, tell your veterinarian.

Other potential causes of scooting can include sensitivity to diet, flea allergy, or skin infection.

Consult with your veterinarian for a specific diagnosis.

It is much better to give thought to this question now than to wait until after your baby is born.  You have allowed yourselves some time to become educated and to train your dog to interact with the new family member.

Get at least two training books dealing specifically with children and dogs.  There is a large amount of information available on how to make this transition as pleasant and stress-free as possible.

In addition, if your dog has not already completed a basic training course, we recommend enrolling it in one now.  For the best chances of success, you and the other family members need to have complete control of your dog.

You should also carefully assess how your dog reacts to children of different ages.  There are some dogs that do not tolerate children well, and they can be very difficult and dangerous to deal with.  In extreme cases, it may be in the best interest of both your dog and baby to place the animal in a home that has no children.

The most important thing that you should remember is that you should NEVER leave your baby and your dog alone together, under any circumstances.  Accidents happen, even with dogs that have shown no previous signs of aggression.  Take the few seconds that it takes to put the dog in a crate or some other secure place.  Do not risk your child being bitten or even killed by any dog, including your own.  We hate to be so grim, but there are many sad stories of this very thing happening when it could have been prevented.

Other Preparation Tips:

• Try to establish a workable feeding and exercise routine before the baby arrives.

• Do not lavish your dog with extra attention that it will miss after the baby is born.

• Allow the dog to explore the nursery and become familiar with the new items there.  Train your dog to recognize that baby items are not dog toys.  This may take some practice, since many baby toys look similar to dog toys.

• Have someone bring home from the hospital a baby blanket with the baby's scent on it.  This will allow the dog to become familiar with the baby's odor before it arrives.

• Make the first meeting between animal and child no big deal, with little fan fare.  Once you and the baby are calm and settled, let your dog come over to investigate.  Do not force a dog to interact with the new "intruder."  Praise the dog calmly when it is near the baby.

• Did you know that barking is less startling to a baby that has been exposed while in utero to the regular barking of a dog?

These are just a few suggestions but there is a lifetime of monitoring and training that you will need to do.  If you are having any fears or trouble, you should contact a professional trainer immediately.

This means that your dog is in a state of sleep that in humans is termed rapid eye movement, or REM, sleep. It is during this time that humans, if awakened, say that they were dreaming. Veterinarians speculate that pets also dream. Although this has not been extensively studied, many veterinarians feel that dogs probably dream about chasing things, and playing with other animals and people. It is not necessary to wake REM-sleeping dogs up, as they will not harm themselves. A good, undisturbed nap will allow your dog to wake up feeling refreshed and able to play.

Yes!  It is common for an otherwise indoor animal to escape outside and run away in fear.  Therefore, all indoor animals should have a collar or some other type of identification on at all times.  Identification information should include the animal's name and the owner's home phone number and address.  This information can lead to the quick return of your pet.

Collars are not the only means of providing an animal with identification.  Microchipping, which involves placing a tiny chip under the skin between the shoulder blades, is becoming quite popular.  When a lost animal is picked up or brought into a veterinary hospital, humane society, or animal shelter, a scanner is used to detect the presence of a microchip; the identification information contained within the chip will appear on the scanner's screen.  These microchips can be placed by your veterinarian, and are a great way of permanently identifying an animal.  A collar is still recommended, however, in case the pet is found by someone who does not have access to a scanner.

Coprophagy, or eating feces, is an unpleasant but common behavior of dogs.  Unfortunately, dogs can become infected with intestinal parasites by ingesting excrement, which may contain microscopic parasitic eggs.  Since your pet has been eating feces, it is very important that your veterinarian evaluate a stool sample to look for infection.

There are several proposed causes for coprophagy.  Boredom is one of them; the behavior is more prevalent in dogs that are crated for long periods of time without stimulation.  In addition, dogs may eat their own waste as a way of "hiding the evidence" if they receive punishment for inappropriate defecation.  Uncommonly, there are also some underlying medical conditions that are thought to be associated with coprophagy, such as a poor diet that is lacking in essential nutrients or vitamins.  The problem also may be caused by a pancreatic enzyme deficiency.

Some behavioral experts feel that coprophagia may be related to a dog's instinctual nature to scavenge for food.  It is also possible that dogs eat their feces as a way of playing, learning, and sampling their environment.

Treatment of this problem can be challenging.  The first step is to keep the area where the dog voids meticulously clean.  This often means following the dog and immediately cleaning up the stool.

In addition, covering the stool with an ingredient that the dog dislikes may be helpful.  Compounds such as red pepper sauce or bitter-tasting substances, which are available in pet stores, may discourage dogs from eating feces.  You can also try sprinkling dog food with Accent meat tenderizer or MSG -- monosodium glutamate -- since these products may help discourage the eating of stool.

Try to deter your dog from this behavior early on, before it becomes a habit that is difficult to control.

There are many ways to exercise your dog, but the key is to start him out slowly and then steadily increase the length and intensity of his workouts.  It is the same philosophy as with humans.  Too much too fast will cause soreness and could even damage weak ligaments.

Walking is still one of the best exercises.  A medium-sized dog should be walked about one and one-half to two miles a day.  Some dogs also love to run, but I would recommend a two or three week walking routine before working up to short jogs.  Use your own judgment as to when your dog has had enough by how he acts the following day.  If he is getting stiff, or is slow to rise, you should slow things down a bit.

Games that dogs love to play also provide good exercise.  Fetching thrown objects, or playing hide-and-seek when two or more people are present, are excellent diversions for dogs.  We don't recommend tug-of-war because it can cause damage to your dog's teeth, and tends to increase aggressive tendencies.

Other means of exercise include agility training, doggy play-groups, and obedience classes.  Most dogs enjoy these activities because it works their mind as well as their body.  If you search out a play-group, try to find one that has dogs of similar ages and carefully "test" them together on leashes first.  Sometimes play can get out of hand and escalate into a fight.

If you have any questions about your dog's health and its ability to exercise safely, consult your regular veterinarian.  A veterinary examination will reveal if an underlying heart condition or other problem exists that could make exercise dangerous.

It is very common for owners to think that odors are coming from a dog's hair when they may be originating from other places, including the mouth, feet, ears, and perianal area.  Dental disease, yeast overgrowth on the paws, ear infection, and full anal glands may be causing the foul smell.  Be sure that you carefully wash these areas or around these areas when bathing your dog.  It is important that a veterinarian rule out any such problems during an examination.

Many odors can be associated with skin diseases.  Pyoderma, a bacterial skin infection, yeast infection, and seborrhea, or excessively oily skin, may also cause a foul smell.

Your veterinarian will be able to determine if there is a medical cause for the smell and then recommend a specific treatment plan.  Only rarely will a dog have severe odor radiating from the body for which a medical cause cannot be determined.

A specific prescription shampoo and possibly a rinse may be needed for the problem.  Your veterinarian also will be able to guide you on how frequently you need to bathe your dog.  Generally, a healthy dog should only be shampooed once a month or less, unless your veterinarian has prescribed otherwise.

Veterinarians frequently recommend that owners use a dog or pet shampoo and not a human shampoo because the pH of pet shampoos is different from that of human shampoos.  General shampooing often will remove typical odors that dogs pick up on their hair coats.

Brushing your dog's teeth, combined with professional dental cleanings by a veterinarian, is a very important part of maintaining the animal's health.  A dog with healthy teeth and gums is more likely to keep its teeth for life, continue to eat hard food, and have less breath odor.  In addition, dogs that have a consistent dental health regimen are less likely to develop bacterial infections of the bloodstream.  Bacteria from the teeth are known to colonize the valves of the heart, causing a type of heart disease called bacterial endocarditis.

Dogs, especially the smaller breeds, actually require the same kind of care for their teeth as people do for theirs.  Smaller breeds tend to acquire a tremendous amount of plaque and tartar on their teeth.  This is most likely because they often do not chew on bones and other hard items that help with the mechanical breakdown of plaque and tartar, or eat soft, canned food rather than the hard varieties.

It is important to start brushing your dog's teeth as early in life as possible.  Never use human toothpaste, since it contains foaming agents that can cause the dog to vomit if swallowed.  Veterinary toothpaste does not contain these foaming agents, so a dog may safely swallow it.  Most dogs love the taste of the veterinary toothpaste, which comes in a variety of flavors, including chicken, beef, and malt.  (Most pets will try to lick it off the brush before their teeth have been cleaned!)  Also available are fluoride sprays and gels that can be applied to the teeth after brushing in order to help prevent tooth decay.

There are many different types of toothbrushes designed for dogs.  Some fit over the finger and are called "finger brushes," while others are very long and angled, with a wide brush head.  These can be purchased from a veterinarian or a pet store.  Some people use a human toothbrush with soft bristles that will not damage the gums.

Use the toothbrush on all the surfaces of your dog's teeth -- especially the back molars -- at least one to two times a day.  You'll quickly see results in the dog's breath odor.  The long-term benefits to its teeth, gums, and general health, will be rewarding to both you and your pet.